The Ashtray Archive · a collector's field guide

Lighters
& Lighter Cases.

Every Supreme Zippo with its restock history, the sterling Bic sleeves, Rive Droite, and the houses (Dupont, Dunhill, Hermès, Gucci) that made the lighter a luxury object.

Supreme

EST. 1994 · LAFAYETTE ST, NYC

Supreme's Zippo is the one accessory that comes back nearly every year, and the red all-over Logo Zippo is the most restocked smoking piece the brand has made. The ceramics get their own page.

Zippos: an annual tradition

Supreme has released well over a dozen Zippos; by FW20 the count was already thirteen. The 2000s–mid-2010s versions were mostly small box-logo hits on classic chrome or colored cases; the modern era went all-over.

Other paraphernalia

Market read: the SS18 Logo and SS20 Glow-in-the-Dark Zippos are the liquid, findable entries ($60–200 on StockX/eBay). Spectrum FW16 and the Swarovski FW20 trade higher; the Diamond Cut is the sleeper.

Stüssy · HUF · Kith

CALIFORNIA + NYC

Stüssy logo Bic-style lighters have floated through drops for decades, and the recent metal lighter cases (Metal Pill, City Metal, Cowboy Boot, Bejeweled) are the current collectibles. HUF ships logo lighters nearly every season at $5–15, the cheapest way into the genre. Kith only started doing Zippos with its recent licensed capsules.

Kith (est. 2011, NYC)

Chrome Hearts

EST. 1988 · HOLLYWOOD

The Starks' silver empire approaches smoking the way it approaches everything: sterling and excess. The famous entry point is the .925 silver lighter case, a jacket for a disposable Bic in cross-patch, dagger and scroll motifs, and a longtime celebrity pocket piece. They resell in the four figures. The leather cigarette cases are on the cases page, the Baccarat crystal on the ashtrays page.

Chrome Hearts sterling silver Cylinder Table Plus Bic lighter case
.925 LIGHTER CASE
AMBUSH silver lighter case pendant necklace on curb chain
AMBUSH LIGHTER-CASE NECKLACE

Adjacent: AMBUSH, Yoon Ahn's jewelry label, made the other famous lighter-as-jewelry piece: the lighter-case pendant necklace, a chromed Bic sleeve on a chain. Different subculture, same instinct.

Saint Laurent Rive Droite

PARIS · EST. 2019 (CONCEPT STORES)

Anthony Vaccarello's Rive Droite concept shops (Paris + LA) are where Saint Laurent sells the lifestyle: skate decks, condoms, casino chips, and a rotating set of logo lighters and matches. It's the easiest "real luxury house" entry in this whole document, often under $100 at the boutique.

Saint Laurent Rive Droite black and white checkerboard lighter
RIVE DROITE, CHECKERBOARD
1960s Yves Saint Laurent Mini Louisiane pink lacquer lighter
MINI LOUISIANE, PINK, 1960S

Vintage Luxury

GUCCI · HERMÈS · THE LIGHTER HOUSES

The table lighter was a serious luxury object from the 1950s through the 80s, and the houses treated it as one: Gucci's belt-buckle lighters, Hermès' sculptural silver cube. If the object matters more than the logo, go straight to the lighter houses.

Gucci & Hermès

Gucci belt-buckle silver-plated table lighter
BELT-BUCKLE TABLE LIGHTER
Hermes 1960s silver cube lighter with sculptural H
SILVER CUBE LIGHTER, 1960S

The lighter houses

If the object matters more than the logo: S.T. Dupont (the "cling" sound), Dunhill and Cartier are the reference points every fashion lighter imitates, and vintage examples anchor any serious tray-top setup.

Vintage 1960s S.T. Dupont Ligne 1 silver-plated lighter in box
S.T. DUPONT LIGNE 1, 1960S
Vintage Dunhill Rollagas gold-plated black lacquer lighter
DUNHILL ROLLAGAS, C.1970

Deeper Cuts: The Hunt List

FOR COMPLETIONISTS

Verified less rigorously, but worth searching by name: FTP and Carhartt WIP both run logo lighters alongside their ashtrays, Supreme's hand warmers and match strikers above are completionist territory, and WTAPS / mastermind / fragment have put out sporadic Zippos across Japanese seasons (SNKRDUNK is the best hunting ground).